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Russian Cuisine - Communication, Emotions, Philosophy.
Just To Put Soul In
What You Make!
Nothing else but national cuisine gives such a good opportunity to understand
so closely the material culture of people. Learning its specials is probably the
best and shortest way to mutual understanding of nations.
One of the secrets of Russian cuisine (may be the most important secret) is "
to cook with soul ". Or as they say in Russia " to put soul " in what you make.
In this country in general much is done " with soul " or " from soul ".
And food for a Russian is not a simple hunger fighting.
This is a sort of communication, emotions. It is a philosophy if you
want. When people sit down to table all together
and communicate, they exchange positive emotions. They are ready to spend the rest
of their money to create "a beautiful table" and to bring pleasure to
a guest. Strange as it may seem, but money is not the main thing for a Russian at all
(there are some advantages and disadvantages of this and it is Russian
paradox!). "Bring to the table all you've
got in the oven! " Everything or nothing! Russian people love
holidays. Feeling of a holiday in soul is a necessary condition of
their being. Such are the traditions. Such is the breadth of Russian soul.
There are many stories about Russian hospitality...That's the truth. Russian
people are always glad to have visitors. They can lay the table very quickly.
One makes use of home preparations - salt preserved vegetables and mushrooms and other marinades.
Though nowadays this tradition is disappearing little by little in big cities, where people become more prudent, not
Russian-like. In our childhood and youth everything was different. The people were kinder
and less selfish. There was a good tradition of visiting each other, especially on
holidays.
Holidays of the USSR times had nopolitical flavour for
ordinary people, as it is considered in the
West by mistake. It was just an occasion to meet the old friends, make the
new friends, have fun, talk sincerely.
Table was crammed with food despite of deficit of products
in the country. It is one more paradox of Russian people. However ability of
a Russian to adapt to any situations (ability of a
survival) till now is beyond the standard
understanding. It has always been so.
Certainly, pies are the decoration of Russian table. But not caviar, as
considered in the West. And not even vodka. However vodka is an important part
of a table. But it is just the mean to build communication. A mean of
relaxation. It is a contribution to Russian tradition.
The pies are a different song... Pies recipes are handed down from mother to
daughter. There are sweet pies (with various berries, cottage cheese, jam...),
with cabbage, potatoes, meat, fish... Large and small
("rastyagai"). Open pies ("vatrushki") with cottage cheese, cabbage or
potatoes are especially good. Our family liked small pies from unleavened dough with
cabbage in particular. "Vatrushki" with potatoes used to be
made from rye flour earlier. Hot, just from the oven,
they is especially very tasty and unique
with cold milk. In general rye flour was very popular in Russia in old times (and in the
times of Khruschev also - I remember lines for wheat flour and also potato
"vatrushki" out of pieces of rye bread). Now rye flour is
basically used just to make rye (or " black " as they say) bread.
Russian bread is another story. It is impossible to imagine Russian table
without rye black bread. Many dishes will certainly lose their taste and any
sense without it. For example well-known love of Russians to garlic to its large
extent is connected just with rye bread, which gives additional taste to food (I
remember in childhood rubbing crunchy crust of freshly baked black bread with
garlic made my mouth water). Even famous Russian "pelmeni"are frequently eaten with black
bread because it is more delicious. The popularity of rye bread in
Russia is surprisingly high. It is necessary to point out that it contains useful vitamins, which
are so needed in human organism. Being in a distance from Russia we constantly feel this "
summons of ancestors "so we periodically visit Russian store
to buy a loaf (or even two - three) of flavoured black
bread there. There are several kinds of this bread - with wheat flour or other components and
spices added to it. For example, the "borodinsky" bread is baked with addition of
caraway seeds. We always try to find bread with the maximal contents of a rye
flour..
Salting is also a usual part of Russian feast. Sauerkraut
with onions and vegetable oil is a real Russian miracle (especially with black bread, you are
right!). There is nothing richer in vitamin "C" in comparison with it. In conditions of severe Russian winter it has been practically the only source of
vitamins for the Russian people for a long time.
Besides there is no doubt sauerkraut is a super hors d'oevres for vodka.
Some words about vodka... Yes, it is an important part of Russian table. In
Russia they say that a meal becomes uninteresting if it
ceases to be hors d'oevres... Usually men prefer vodka to all
alkohol drinks (there is a sense in this). Women usually drink
sweet or dry wine (though sometimes also prefer vodka in small quantities).
Home-made wine from berries grown in own garden is often offered to plain
fare. Though recently people usually buy wine in sotres. More often this
is cheap Moldavian wine of rather doubtful quality.
Salads... Of course it is impossible to imagine Russian table without them.
Meat, fish, vegetable, with vegetable oil, sour cream, mayonnaise, "winter",
"summer"... - there are so many various salads in Russian cuisine.It is
necessary to mention vinaegrette. In fact it is salad from boiled vegetables (beet, potatoes, carrots) with addition
of fresh onions, sauerkraut, pickles, vinegar and vegetable oil. All vegetables need finely be to
be cut and to be mixed (it is desirable in a warm state. One can possibly add greens and green peas.
Instead of vinegar it is better to use freshly squeezed lemon juice. In general we try to
use lemon juice instead of vinegar everywhere it's possible. It is strange, why in America and Canada they
do not do the same thing. The abundance of vinegar in local Canadian food amazes
our imagination. But it is obvious that people get used to this from childhood. But from our
point of view lemon juice is more pleasant and useful than vinegar... So, vinaegrette is
delicious, light and nutritious salad. It is one more source of vitamins during long Russian winter.
Sometimes vinaegrette is combined with salted herring. However herring is
good by itself... Yes, you are right, it is remarkable hors d'oevres... It is also necessary
to mention another amazing salad "Herring under the fur". In brief,
it is a mix of vinaegrette and fillet of a herring covered by mayonnaise from above... Taste
is extraordinary...Just the thought makes my mouth water..
Russian "pelmeni" (more known in the West as ravioli)
is another interesting story. Nowadays people often buy
ready-made "pelmeni" in grocery stores. But real Russian
"pelmeni" are prepared only at home.. One
buys fresh meat, prepares forcemeat. It's better if "pelmeni" are moulded manually. It is considered that this
way they are more tasty (and again "with soul"). Meat selection for forcemeat is very
important, observance of proportions of beef and pork.
"Pelmeni"are served with sour cream, vinegar, with mayonnaise or ketchup. And.. It is
desirable "with vodka".
"Pelmeni"are often served on the second day of wedding.
But the truth now is that weddings are celebrated on one day only perhaps due to saving money reasons.
Western ravioli are similar to Russian "pelmeni" but
nevertheless are not the same. Caucasian ravioli ("khinkali") differ from Russian
"pelmeni" by the size and abundance of spices. Asian ravioli ("manti") are also bigger in
size and are steam prepared. In general each nation has a dish similar to "pelmeni". But Russian "pelmeni" is
a special subject. In Siberia and in the Urals this is a usual dish.
No doubt, Russian food differs from what people in the West have got used to,
especially in America, where at the end of 19th century rationalistic tendency in development of
cuisine has arisen. Its idea is that the food should be simple and fast in preparation. The "FAST-FOOD" industry has appeared. As
for us, we visit places like Macdonalds and Harveys etc very seldom. Thanks God we have an opportunity to buy relatively
initial products (meat, fish, vegetables, fruit) in Canadian stores and after habitual manipulations enjoy all
the amenities of Russian cuisine...
Some words about addiction to sweet.... At first it was very strange for us
to see serious adults, sitting in places like Tim Hortons for hours enjoying
different sweet stuff. In Russia it would have looked at least ridiculous... Certainly, Russian love
sweet too. And sweet pastries or home-made cakes with flavoured tea is a
usual conclusion of Russian feast. Nevertheless addiction of Americans and Canadians to sweet amazes. There is an impression that this need
exists somewhere on a genetic level. Though our younger daughter Natasha
already seems to have caught it... The word "chocolate" does not go away from
her small lips. She is a child of course. In our childhood we also loved
sweet, though the choice was not so big. I am recollicting our favourite
dainty of those remarkable times. It is a slice of fresh white bread (just brought from a bakery)
spread with butter and sugared from above... I've never tasted a better desert in my life.
We ran out to the yard with this slice of bread and came across
coevals fixing their eyes on us: "Forty eight - give me the half, mate ". "Forty one - give you none"
- I answered joking... Of course we ate it together... How extremely
tasty it was, on the fresh air in good company!......
It was in the childhood.... Now in Canada, at times it seems that the people
remain kids here all their life.. They love sweet in any age so much... I do not
know, if it is good or bad. But we are amazed at such quantity of overweight
people. By the way, it seems it does not disturb them at all. In Russia they
could have had problems in personal life. And Russian women are ready to keep to
any diets, to sacrifice anything to be slim. (May be that's why they get so much attention of the
men, including Western ones?)
However there is a good proverb "What is good for a Russian - death for a
German". Each nation has its own traditions, education. And one shouldn't "enter a
foreign temple with his own charter". It would be good to unit the best customs of
different nations.... But it is impossible... As it is
impossible "To harness together a horse and a gentle doe"...
It is noticed that people who have acquired certain culinary skills and
receipts early in life, develop certain settled tastes, and they can hardly leave something habitual,
being always subjectively sure that habitual can not be worse. Even though I live in Canada, I live in a rather
Russian household. My Russian roots don't leave me...especially when it comes to food. Native food
can really make you get quickly addicted, especially if it is as delicious as
Russian. All my family actually has cravings at times.
In conclusion one should say some words about V.V.Pokhlebkin, a talented man
with a tragical destiny. He is known as an author of several remarkable culinary
and historical books. Besides in the book "A History of Vodka" he has proved the
priority of Russian Vodka. By the way his first culinary book was devoted to tea. They love tea in Russia very much.
Even more than coffee. In old times tea was made in "samovar" with the help of pine cones. "Samovar" was
put on the table. And people were having a slowly conversation about life over a cup of tea... Cup by cup
... Day by day...
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| | [15.12.2008] My recipe of borsch
| Hi Gregg, Borsch has come in Russia from Ukraine. Also it is a good example of friendship between two peoples; -)
There are several recipes of borsch. The traditional soup in Russia and Ukraine should be greasy and sated. Usually borsch prepare from pork (seldom from the chicken) with enough quantity of bacon.
I cook it differently. Because me and my family prefer ungreasy dietary light food with the maximal preservation of all nutritious properties. How I make it...
First of all I use beef or veal. I boil meat within about one hour with addition of salt, pepper, onion, garlic. etc. This time I take some beet. For the large saucepan of a soup I use 5.... 6 beets of the average size. I clear beet from skin. Then I a fresh juice from 3.. 4 beets. The rest two beets I cut like a thin spaghetti. Then I cut cabbage by the same way.
After that I take out meat from a broth. I add salt, pepper, carry, vinegar and other cpices on your taste. And then I bake it in oven to the nice crust. Further I am working with a broth. First of all I filter a broth. Then I put a saucepan with a broth on the fire. Also I add there cutted beet (juice I will add right in the end of my cooking to safe the nutritious properties).
Then I add cutted cabbage in to a broth. Then I add there garlic (the more the better). Then I add cutted potatoes. If it necessary I add water and salt (I have to try it during all process of cooking). Approximately in 15 minutes I add there beet's juice. In five minutes I add there juice of a lemon or any vinegar on your taste. I descale and remove all fat by the spoon. It looks unusually but it is my recipe; -). In 5... 10 minutes I add there cuttedor calery or fennel or parsley and I turn off the fire. Right at the end I add a butter in to a broth and I close a saucepan by a cover. Then in 15... 30 minutes my borsch is ready!! It is not a borsch. It is a real balm for a stomach and for soul; -) I also slice cooked meat by small slices and present it on a separate plate. This recipe requires your attention and patience as well as all real Russian meal; -) Good appetite!
Sergey |
| [15.12.2008] Gregg W. Anderson
| Hello, I do
missionary work in
Latvia and love
purple borsch...can
anyone email me
directions to make
some...thanks...Greg
g
gr
egga@70x7ministry.co
m |
| [11.07.2008] olga
| Russian writer Anton
Chekhov said that
during 200 yeas the
scientists racked
their brains over a
problem as zakuska
for vodka but they
could contrive
nothing better than
salted (or pickled)
cucumber.Zakuska is
the most important
part of the process
of drinking vodka.
The best zakuska for
vodka is salted or
pickled vegetables
and mushrooms,
salted herrings with
onion, potatoes
with greasy meat or
fish as salmon,
caviar, pelmeni and
borsch. Greasy food
will protect your
stomach from hurting
and also will not
let your stomach
absorb the alcohol
too fast. The main
rules is: never
drink vodka on an
empty stomach, do
not drink bear or
soda water right
after a shot of
vodka, it is better
to eat something. |
| [11.07.2008] vremja
| Don't feel bad,
pirozhki are hard to
make! Last time I
tried mine fell
apart. As an aside,
pirozhki (singular
pirozhok) is one of
the more vexing
words in Russian.
What we 'mercuns
think of as pirozhki
are more like
Russian vareniki or
pel'meni. A
pirozhok (a little
pie) in Russian
could be anything
bready that's baked
or fried and
probably stuffed
with something. I
think it's because
North Americans get
a lot of
interference from
Polish pirogies.
WTF.Also this
finally gives me a
chance to be nosy.
vremya, why you has
russki word fer
name?There's a
well-known
children's rhyme
about a peasant
woman and pirozhki.
She went, went,
went, and found a
pirozhok. She sat
down, had a meal,
then set off again.
Russian/Ukrainian
satirical singer
Andrey Danilko
(singing in drag as
his wildly popular
alter ego Verka
Serduchka) set it to
a catchy little
tune. It's a stupid
song, but I like it |
| [11.07.2008] falco
| Good Russian food is
good! I had venison
Stroganov at
Rasputin's, in St.
Pete, and it was
scrumpdilicious. The
beef Stroganov I had
at the Temple Bar,
across from the
Moscow Kremlin, over
rice, was delish,
too. We've a
smallish, but
noticeable, Russian
community here in
Puddle City, and
they've had a
restaurant right
nearby my
neighborhood.
Excellent piroges
and borscht. One of
my poker buddies is
from the Jersey
Shore Ukraine
community, so he
attends the annual
Ukrainian festival
here and stocks up
on sausages and
piroges.Rich...lots
of cream and butter.
Great if you're
working outdoors in
subfreezing weather.
But if you're
sitting indoors in
the warmth, staring
at a screen, it'll
put you to
sleep...and
eventually clog your
arteries. Oh...and
you'd better like
cabbage. |
| [11.07.2008] jalko
| Here are some
additional Russian
restaurants in Sunny
Isles and
Hallandale:1.
Neptune – 171 Sunny
Isles Blvd. - (305)
948-5551 – seafood
restaurant –
moderately priced;2.
Tatiana – 1710 E.
Hallandale Beach
Blvd – 954.454.1222
– pretty expensive,
very elaborate
atmosphere;3. Lula
Kebab – 18250
Collins Avenue –
305.792.0151;4.
Kalinka
Russian-European
Delicatessen, 18090
Collins Ave, Sunny
Isles Beach;
305-705-9333. Open
daily 9:00 a.m. to
10:00 p.m. 5. Sugar
Rush Café, 18090
Collins Ave, Sunny
Isles Beach;
305-792-4459. Open
for dinner Sunday
through Thursday
5:00 p.m. to 1:00
a.m., Friday and
Saturday 5:00 p.m.
to 2:00 a.m. Have
been to the last two
places. Very good
food at Sugar Rush.
Lots to pick from at
deli. |
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